Learn what a sub irrigated planter is, how they work and the benefits of using one in your urban garden!
What is a Sub Irrigated Planter (SIP) and How Do They Work?
According to Al Gracian “Gardening with sub-irrigation is the process of watering plants from below the soil line. Through capillary action, the water then slowly rises upwards.”
Wikipedia defines capillary action as “the process of liquid flowing in a narrow space without the assistance of external forces like gravity”.
Sub irrigated planters consist of a watertight container with a water reservoir, air chamber and peat-based potting mix. You can also utilize a filling tube for easy watering and an overflow drain to ensure the planter doesn’t become water-logged.
These planters can be used indoors or outdoors. Users can buy retail models or build one themselves!
Photos from Al Gracian of Albopepper
Sub Irrigated Planter Benefits
Sub irrigated planters can be used in conjunction with a rain barrel collection system to self-water and provide even more storage after each rain event. This is totally free water that plants love.
Having a built-in water storage reservoir helps these planters resist times of drought.
A water-level gauge can be installed to help you see how much water the planter needs. This assists with water consumption because you’re only using the amount of water that the plants need.
Planters can be used on top of impervious areas (hard surfaces) that would otherwise be rendered useless for growing crops. This helps the urban gardeners reclaim their land as the planter can be placed just about anywhere.
Crops that Grow Well in a SIP
Annual plants perform very well in a sub irrigated planter. These plants grow for a short time but require a large amount of moisture to thrive.
Examples Include: Peppers, tomatoes, ground cherries, watermelon, corn, zucchini, squash, broccoli, cauliflower, celery, kale, spinach, lettuce, arugula, radishes, carrots, parsnips, basil, parsley, dill and many other annual plants!
Learn how thoughtful species selection can create balanced habitats that support pollinators and wildlife all season.
A thoughtfully considered prairie planting is one of the most beautiful sites to see come spring. When you are planning your prairie planting, you want to keep diversity in mind. Diversity in height, bloom time, species, lifecycle, structure and location are key to planning a successful habitat. Native grasses vary from 3 feet to as much as 10 feet tall. Native forbs (or wildflowers) also vary greatly in height but also in bloom time, color, shape and size. I mentioned in my first habitat article that ensuring we have species growing in each bloom time frame is the best way to adequately support wildlife and pollinators.
The early spring bloom window is the most challenging time frame to capture on a prairie planting. Well-behaved, non-native clovers are often included in planting mixes in conjunction with some natives like golden alexander, foxglove beard tongue and some coreopsis species. This window can be supported by planting pollinator/ wildlife friendly trees and shrubs that bloom earlier than herbaceous species, act as boundaries between properties and provide additional cover and forage. Wildlife friendly choices can include American plum, oaks, maples, red osier/ flowering dogwood, spice bush, American hazelnut, crab apple, native willows, pines and more.
The peak summer bloom window is the easiest to hit, as most of our native species bloom from June to August. Some of my favorites are cardinal flower, bee balm, blue vervain and mountain mint, which is also a hit with honeybees (trust me). The late bloom window is dominated by goldenrods and asters, which are essential for supporting migrating or hibernating pollinators and wildlife.
At least three species in each bloom window are encouraged, though more is always better. Species that host native pollinators, like milkweed, should also be included. Plant life cycles are also important to consider. Perennials and biennials will persist through the life span of the prairie planting, but that’s not to say annuals should be left out. Annuals are great to include in mixes, especially during the first growing season as perennials are working on their complex root systems and very little growth happens above ground. Annuals give you something pretty to look at and can re-seed themselves for several years, especially in well managed and maintained stands.
Grassland birds and other wildlife species depend on diverse grasslands. Often the wildflower component is overlooked and only grasses are considered good habitat. Yes, our native grasses and their long seed heads are great forage products for wildlife, and conducive to chick mobility, brood rearing, and nesting. However, forbs are what attract the invertebrates that make up a huge portion of birds’ diets.
It is essential to consider continued management when planning your planting. Prescribed fire is one of the best tools available for maintaining early successional habitat. If you’re planning on utilizing it as a tool in your planting, planning burn breaks is essential. Burn breaks are strips of low-lying vegetation, or bare ground, that maintain moisture, green cover, or a lack of cover through much of the year. Clovers fit the bill perfectly. If burn maintenance is something you want to implement but didn’t plan burn breaks into an already established prairie, repeated tillage can achieve a similar result prior to a burn being implemented.
Site conditions are also important to consider when planning a prairie. Upland sites are some of the best locations for planting prairies, however low land/ wet sites can also be successful. Choosing species that suit drainage, sunlight, and soil properties is essential. What does your surrounding habitat lack? Are there gaps you could fill? Are there enough forbs? Too many grasses? This is where things can be fun and very specific to your site. If you’re considering planting a native prairie on your property, please reach out and we can start planning!
Diverse, native grass stand with little and big bluestem, side oats, and legumes/ forbs (clovers, coneflowers, rudbeckias, goldenrod, etc.)
Mono-culture of Reed-Canary Grass- an invasive grass species that dominates wet sitting/ riparian sites here in Ohio.
Bloom calendar displaying the flowering periods of various native plant species from March to November. The chart ensures continuous bloom, coverage, species diversity, and structural variety. Different colors indicate when each species is in bloom, helping guide plant selection for pollinator support.
Spring brings new growth – some of it unwanted. Learn how to manage nuisance pond and land plants before they take over.
Springtime for ponds will bring about opportunities to make new memories with family and friends around your pond. But did you experience issues with various plants last year that you may have forgotten about? Some plants you might see this spring/summer include:
Broadlead Watermilfoil – Submerged leaves are finely dissected and cause the shoot to resemble to form of a raccoon tail, whereas leaves on the emergent bracts tend to be smaller and appear only in summer
Broadleaf Watermilfoil – Photo by Matt Wallace
All these plants have the potential to provide feeding, loafing and protective cover opportunities for waterfowl, fish and other mammals. But like so many other things they can become a nuisance, reduce plant biodiversity, create hypoxic zones and need to be controlled. Things like watermeal, duckweed and cattails should be treated in the early spring if they were an issue for your pond last year. All aquatic plants can be controlled with aquatic herbicides. If they become too prolific and for the cases where herbicides are ineffective, you may need to consider mechanical removal of the plants. These are just a few of the common pond plants found in Ohio and any aquatic herbicide that you use needs to have their directions followed exactly as the label specifies. Deviation from the product directions can cause unwanted and potentially harmful results.
Landscaping Woes: Problem Plants and How to Handle Them
Plants like multiflora rose, grapevine, poison ivy, poison hemlock and garlic mustard weed can have some wildlife benefit but can do more harm than good. Multiflora rose, with its white flowers and thorns, while providing habitat for wildlife can prove to be a nuisance around your property. It can be easily controlled with pruning, mowing, or herbicide application. Grapevine and poison ivy can provide wildlife with a food source but can be detrimental to people who are sensitive to oils and particulate matter from poison ivy. Vines can be detrimental to trees in inclement weather by providing additional, unnecessary weight and instability. These vines can be easily cut and sprayed with the appropriate herbicides to control them. Garlic mustard, when found, is best if it is pulled and placed onto a hard surface to dry out then disposed of in the trash.
The most prolific undesirable plant that citizens see and call us about is Poison Hemlock. The main stem of this plant is green with a whitish fuzzy look to it when it is young. Its leaves resemble that of a carrot, but this is not edible (1). As the plant matures the main stem will become hollow and have green and purplish splotches with a glaucous coating over it (2). This plant will also have a flower head that appears yellow (3) when the flowers are not unfurled revealing a white (4) flower. If you suspect that you may have an adverse reaction to any plant or its parts, it is highly recommended that you take the appropriate precautions to protect yourself. If you plan on controlling any of these or other plants with mechanical or herbicide measures please read and understand the tools that you will be using for optimal results. For best results overall, undesirable plants are best controlled before they begin to flower and have the ability to spread seed. These plants can be found commonly in low lying wet areas where standing water is common. Many plants will re-sprout where you saw them last year so early removal, before they have a flower head on them, is crucial.
We will be hosting a pond clinic at the Longview Center on February 25th from 5:30pm – 7:30pm. Steve Fender of Fender’s Fish Hatchery will discuss topics such as fish species selection, pond maintenance, aquatic weed control, and predator mitigation. Our office will also share how we can assist with pond design, usage, soil suitability testing, and their endless possibilities. Additionally, we will be discussing the benefits of installing a dry hydrant in your pond for fire suppression and additional homeowner benefits. Watch our webpage for additional updates.
We are having our annual fish sale again this year! Orders are DUE April 17th. Please place orders online or call about in-person ordering. For more information about placing orders and fish species available follow this link.
Pick up is April 25 at the Richland County Fairground Horse Barn from 10:00am to 11:30am. Please bring enough containers to hold the purchased fish. Each container needs an unscented poly liner to hold oxygen and keep fish alive and well during transport. Fill the container/liner one-third full with water from the pond that the fish will be living in. For more information check out our fish sale pick up page or give us a call at 419-747-8686.
Do you have a farm that you want to make sure that it will stay in agricultural production forever? Or has it been in your family for multiple generations? The Ohio Department of Agriculture has programs to preserve and recognize these milestones. For more information, call our office.
What’s a Floodplain?
What is a floodplain? A floodplain is an area adjacent to a river or stream that becomes inundated with water during times of heavy or prolonged rainfall. Building in the floodplain presents challenges such as the need for hydraulic and hydrologic studies, additional permits, and higher construction costs to elevate structures.
Applying manure to fields is common, but better manure management can prevent unintentional runoff. Our office can assist producers with best manure management techniques. Drainage issues are also a frequent concern during heavy rainfall, and many landowners overlook problem areas that can lead to flooding. For more information on these topics, visit our website or contact Technician Matt Wallace at 419-747-8687.
Recently the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began petitioning for the Monarch Butterfly to be listed as a threatened species…
Recently, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began petitioning for the monarch butterfly to be listed as a threatened species in the U.S and is seeking public input on the proposal. This inspired me to start a habitat series focused on grassland birds and pollinator habitat because good pollinator habitat is also good bird habitat!
Winter has arrived, which presents the perfect opportunity to discuss winter habitat and resource needs for pollinators. Some pollinators, like Monarch Butterflies, fly south for the winter, but many other stay home and hibernate. To survive the cold months, they need safe, undisturbed places to rest like stems of plants, leaf piles, or the ground. Providing these spaces when Ohio is blanketed by cold can make a big difference.
When planning your pollinator planting, it’s essential to plant species that bloom all throughout the growing season to ensure resources are readily available. For migrating species like Monarchs, late bloomers like asters and goldenrod are especially helpful as they prepare for their long journey. Hibernating pollinators need a place to nest and rest over winter. Resist the urge to tidy everything up in the fall! Many pollinators hibernate in hollow plant stems, under leaves, or in the soil. By leaving plants and seed heads standing, you’re giving pollinators a safe place to rest and providing food for birds in winter.
Pruning of perennials in gardens should be postponed until after winter and can occur in the start of spring. This allows overwintering pollinators to emerge safely when weather warms up. If you have a larger area like a meadow or prairie, try to mow only once a year and do it in late summer (July or August). This gives plants and pollinators enough time before winter to grow and supply cover, food for wildlife and hibernation locations for our pollinators. Mowing should not occur during the primary grassland bird nesting season (March 1 – July 15).
The key to pollinator habitat is mimicking wild landscapes. A clean, pristine garden does not mimic our natural landscapes where native pollinators and wildlife have co-evolved with the plants and ‘management’ on the landscape. By letting your yard or garden be more natural, you’re helping to recreate the environment they need to survive.
In summary, managing pollinator plantings for winter:
If your pollinator habitat is grassland/ prairie: Strategically time your mowing and maintenance with a goal to have mowing completed by mid-August to ensure your stand has adequate cover through winter.
Ensure your stand has species blooming in the last bloom window, these usually include asters and goldenrods and supply food/ fuel for migrating species and pollinators trying to store energy for the long winter hibernation.
Keep the cover! Keep as much above ground cover available as possible, leave the stems, logs, leaf litter and rocks. If you are managing a smaller garden patch, avoid pruning until late winter/ early spring. *Keeping the seed heads on standing vegetation increases food availability for other wildlife, too!
Please do not hesitate to reach out with any habitat questions or comments!
This year’s county fair brought an unexpected highlight – dirty underwear from across Richland County! As part of the Soil Your Undies challenge, our team buried a pair of 100% cotton underwear underground for 60 days in each of the 18 townships to showcase soil health. Rich soil teeming with microbes…
A map of all the buried underwear locations. Credit: Richland SWCD
Dirty Undies!
This year’s county fair brought an unexpected highlight – dirty underwear from across Richland County! As part of the Soil Your Undies challenge, our team buried a pair of 100% cotton underwear underground for 60 days in each of the 18 townships to showcase soil health.
Rich soil teeming with microbes and worms will break down the fabric quickly, while less active soils will show little change. The healthier the soil, the faster the cotton underwear decomposes providing a fun and visual way to assess the vitality of local soils.
Our Underwear on Display…
One common joke among visitors after seeing the display was that Richland County should be called “Rich Land County” due to the thriving soils in some townships. Many visitors had questions about replicating the experiment in their backyard and we were able to give them our extra pairs of undies
Our display quickly became a hit at the fair, sparking curiosity among visitors of all ages. Fairgoers were amazed to see the varying levels of underwear decomposition and how it correlated with the land’s use.
Marilyn Roe, Richland SWCD Volunteer, at our 2024 Richland County Fair booth
After the two-month burial period, we retrieved the undies and put them on display at the county fair. The results ranged from pairs that were barely recognizable to those with minimal decay. This visual showcase highlighted the differences in soil health across the county.
A Lesson in Soil Health
This experiment was more than just entertaining – it reminded us of the importance of maintaining healthy soil. Local farmers especially took note of how soil health can affect crop yield, water retention, and sustainability. Sites where the underwear remained mostly intact now have a clear opportunity to investigate practices that could improve their soil health like adding compost or using cover crops.
Overall, the Soil Your Undies experiment was a great success. The positive reception at the fair showed just how eager our community is to learn about environmental stewardship. Richland County is ready to prove that it’s not just rich in history, but rich in land too.
We want to extend a big thank you to the landowners who allowed us to bury underwear on their properties! This project wouldn’t have been possible without their generosity, curiosity, and support.
Following our 2024 “Pollution Prevention” theme for the MS4 program, composting is one of the easiest ways for the average person to keep food scraps and other organic matter out of the landfill…
Figure 1: Worm bin at the Foley household
The Importance of Composting
Following our 2024 “Pollution Prevention” theme for the MS4 program, composting is one of the easiest ways for the average person to keep food scraps and other organic matter out of the landfill. Nearly 1/3 of all food produced is wasted (~1.3 billion tons each year) and around $165 billion a year is spent managing that waste (data from TED Ed, link below). Composting is a sustainable practice that can coincide with organic gardening.
“Urban Composting” is a practice that can be performed in a city setting with limited space. In this article, I’ll discuss two unique and viable options to get you started: vermicomposting and using compost tumblers.
Vermicomposting
Vermicomposting uses earthworms to decompose organic matter (see Figure 1). The byproduct of vermicomposting is vermicast, a substance rich in humus, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, micronutrients, and beneficial soil microbes. Vermicast can help neutralize soil pH and improve plant health and nutrient uptake. Some folks refer to it as “Black Gold”. Worms can be somewhat sensitive and picky, so avoid putting spicy foods or anything acidic in your vermicompost. You don’t want to upset the balance!
Figure 2: Compost tumbler at South Park Children’s Educational Garden
Compost Tumblers
Traditional composting can be easily performed in a tumbler or similar bin at home. Again, this option does not require a ton of space, and the closed bin keeps any unpleasant smell contained. The composter needs to be turned often—and that is most of the maintenance required. Adding composted organic matter to your soil is a fantastic way to supplement it. Your plants and the planet will thank you.
That’s right! Just not the type of livestock you’re probably thinking of. Instead of cows, pigs, or chickens, you’re farming macro and microorganisms. A teaspoon of healthy soil can contain BILLIONS of microorganisms.
That’s right! Just not the type of livestock you’re probably thinking of. Instead of cows, pigs, or chickens, you’re farming macro and microorganisms. A teaspoon of healthy soil can contain BILLIONS of microorganisms. Microorganisms in the soil are things such as bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes. Many of these organisms are essential for building healthy and resilient soil systems, which give us healthy and resilient plants in return.
Organisms like mycorrhizal fungi, for instance, will attach to a plant’s root and effectively become a root itself, transferring nutrients and capturing water through a symbiotic relationship. Certain types of bacteria in the soil can transform unavailable forms of nutrients (such as nitrogen) into a form the plant can then uptake.
Healthy soils will also contain various macroorganisms. These are organisms you can see in the soil without a microscope, such as earthworms. Macroorganisms, called shredders, help break down detritus on top of the soil and pull/incorporate organic matter and nutrients into the subsurface layers of the soil. Earthworms create pore spaces within the soil which bring air to the subsurface and create voids where roots can grow. They also promote a nutrient-rich casting called globules which help with the aggregate stability of the soil.
All these organisms and many more play a role in soil health and sustainability and should be looked after as one would look after their traditional livestock. Cover cropping, no tilling, avoiding compaction, and increasing biodiversity are among the main strategies to keeping your soil and soil-livestock healthy.
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